The factory TD04LR-15GK-6cm turbocharger is way to small for your 2.4L motor. The tiny turbine wheel and housing cause a huge amount of backpressure and make it rather pointless to do anything other that all out replacement. We've tried to upgrade the stock turbos compressor wheel to a reverse rotation 16G and it makes little more power and even more backpressure. Let the 2.4 breathe, replace the whole thing with a real turbo.
Our turbo kit includes a replacement manifold, turbocharger, external wastegate, and 3" O2 housing that will allow for endless possibilities. You have countless turbo options once you change out the stock turbo assembly to one of our T3/T4 kits.
The kits are based around the T31 High Flow 4 bolt outlet turbine housing, T3/T4 turbos. Turbo placement is a key variable in this design, because of the clearance with the engine and firewall. Rest
assured, the turbo placement allows for enough room so you DO NOT have to "convince" your firewall. NO DENTING OR HACKING OF
THE FIREWALL NEEDED with our kit.
We have gotten well over 700whp and 650ft lbs of torque using this turbo kit on the SRT. The manifold has been extensively tested to deliver fast spool up and a broad flat torque curve. In comparisons with long runner tubular manifolds it makes power 500rpm quicker and with no compromise of top end power. AGP turbo kits make more power under the curve than any other turbo.
The next step is integrating the highest quality and perfectly matched turbo
assembly into the mix. As our base turbo, we've chosen the AGP 3147
turbocharger. This features a T3T4 based oil cooled center housing, a
47lb/min compressor wheel stuffed inside a T04B compressor housing with a 3"
inlet and 2" outlet. The turbine side features a custom stage 3 turbine wheel surrounded in the higher flowing newly designed 4 bolt outlet T31 turbine housing manufactured specifically for the highest flowing performance. We do not use the
decades-old OEM designed 5 bolt turbine housing due to its flow restrictions at
high pressure ratios. (We are NOT building a 7 psi Honda Turbo Kit here, so why
would we use inferior parts.) We add an elbow to the compressor housing so that
it will line up to your factory charge pipe with a little modification.
The AGP-38mm external wastegate has been chosen to properly manage the exhaust flow to the turbine as to prevent any unwanted boost creep, but still allow enough control for those wanting to put the engine to its limits. This gate does this perfectly with a few different spring rates (all spring rates included in the kit). We vent the external wastegate to the atmosphere to keep turbine efficiency the highest as possible. We don't want wasted gasses and turbine gasses to fight each other downstream and create unwanted backpressure. For an additional cost, we now offer a wastegate reroute kit.
The same quality of craftsmanship that has gone into our seven and
eight-second turbo drag motorcycles, and our nine and ten second DSMs and EVO parts, goes
into our SRT-4 products. We know what parts will work in the real world, and what parts won't.
Bigger turbos flow more air, but due to the size, take longer to spool. By
matching the correct wheels and housings, you can minimize lag, and still make
good power. All numbers given are best case scenario. Many things can affect
power. The HP numbers are at the extreme limits of a turbo and not to be expected
for everyone. While 50 trims in perfect setups have done over 500hp, it should
not be expected. Remember the parts are only as successful as the person or
persons installing and tuning them.
3147:
This is the base turbo included in the kit. The turbo is perfect for those who
want way more power than the stock turbo make, but don't want to go overboard with supporting mods.
Our base fuel kit and 750cc injectors without a return line will max this turbo
out. You will see full boost at 3400rpm in the .63 a/r. This turbo will support 450whp on race gas if you feel that you need to turn up the boost to 28. If you are on a tight budget, this base turbo will give you everything you need. This turbo has a tendency to surge if placed in a .48 a/r turbine housing.
6/27/07 THE 3147 TUBRO OPTION HAS BEEN RE-RELEASED!!!
50 trim:
This is the best matched turbo for the 2.4L motor for maximum power with the stock rev limiter. This turbo is perfect for those wanting to make big power on pump gas and win just about any street race from a roll. Full boost should be right around 3100rpm in a .48a/r turbine housing and 3500rpm in a .63a/r. The difference being about 30-40whp less when peaked out on race gas for the .48a/r, but with the faster spool the .48 is nicer for pump gas street driving. On our test cars, we've pulled over 420whp on pump gas at 23psi. The maximum boost is around 30psi where we have seen 500+whp with the .63a/r. The ballbearing option is really nice on this turbo if you can afford it. The turbo comes with a 4" inlet ported shroud compressor cover with a 2" outlet.
We have released a twin ball bearing 50 trim turbocharger that gives you all the same features as the 50 trim we've become to love, now with quicker spoolup. Steel ball bearings provide less rotational friction that will allow for quicker initial spoolup, and better transient response. If you want everything, get the 50 trim Ball Bearing. It's an extra $500 on top of the $1900 base price, but if you want the ultimate spoolup characteristics, it's worth it.
60-1:DISCONTINUED
Now were getting into the race car turbos. A 60-1 can make well over 500whp, support 32psi, and be a nasty turbo. Full boost is around 3800 in a .63 A/R turbine housing. This is a good race turbo but on pump gas is much less efficient than the 50trim. You will need a built motor and a higher rev limit to take advantage of the extra power this turbo will make. At 30psi it will make 40-50hp more than the 50 trim but at 20psi will usually make ~20hp less. This turbo is only recommended if you have a built motor and care more about race performance than street performance.
HP61: DISCONTINUED This is a big race car turbo. 600whp is possible if you dare to run over 35 psi. Full boost around 4000 in the .63 housing, 4300 in the .82. The stage 5 turbine wheel is needed on this turbo to get all the air out. It’s not needed on the smaller turbos as the Stage3 is a good match for those. This big bad boy on the other hand, flows so much air, that a stage 5 wheel is needed. This is for someone wanting to run 10s. This combination can be used on a street car, but the additional lag is not that fun, then again, the additional power may bring a smile to your face. You can run well over 35psi on this turbo. Big injectors are needed; minimum 750cc. Built motor, ported head, cams, AEM EMS or PCM reflash are all needed to make this turbo worth while.
We also offer the HP61 in Ball Bearing for quicker initial spoolup and transient response. New water lines are included in the price.
HP66: DISCONTINUED This is a big, big turbo. 700whp
is possible if you dare to run 40psi. Full boost around 4000-4500 depending on turbine option. We recommend a minimum of the stage 5 turbine wheel, however to get the full potential, a P trim turbine wheel, .82 A/R turbine housing, and the 4" inlet T04S compressor housing is advised. Big injectors are needed; minimum
750cc, and we highly recommend a built engine and a standalone fuel management system like the AEM EMS.
We also offer the HP66 in Ball Bearing for quicker initial spoolup and transient response. New water lines are included in the price.
There are plenty of other options we can do for you if you have your heart set on a custom turbo setup. We are a full turbo shop with custom machining that could give you anything you desire. Please call us and discuss your options. We also
offer a polished compressor housing ($100) as well as polishing the stainless
steel heat shield($50). We are now offering ceramic coating to the manifold,
turbine housing, o2 housing, and dump tube for those who want the ultra 'bling'
setup for an additional $400. Polishing and ceramic coating may add additional
build time to your order.
The 3147 turbo has a 3" inlet, however the 50 trim and larger has a 4" inlet. Because
of the 3" inlet, we suggest using a 3" intake such as the wonderful
AGP Cold Air Intake. You can order the intake with a 4" reducer for the turbos with 4" inlets.
A/R ratios
This relates to the internal volume of the turbine housing. A larger a/r will
flow more air, support more power, but spool later. A .48 is
suggested if you want fast spool. A .48 will make over 400hp easy and for a car that will never run race gas, is a great way to go. For a super fun to drive daily car we really like the 50 trim in a .48 so the turbo comes on fast and hard.
Spool time
Spool can vary from car to car. The condition of the motor, intake, exhaust, tuning and tons of other factors affect spool. In lower gears, the turbo spools later in the RPM band because the load on the engine is less. Spool numbers are normally quoted as RPM when 15+psi is reached in 4th gear. The turbo usually is pulling hard 500-600rpms before max boost as boost is coming on. So take this into account when looking at spool numbers. Our turbos spool fast because we properly match them and use the right parts including our low volume cast manifold.
What do I need for a turbo upgrade?
To bolt the turbo on, you only need two items. A 3" intake pipe and external blow off valve (BOV). You can use a smaller intake and use some sort of adapter, but it will just restrict the turbo. We now offer a wonderful Upper Hard Pipe (UHP) with a thread in temperature sensor, flanged for whatever BOV you want. Other pipes blow the temp sensor under high boost, but out unique design prevents this from happening. If you want a recommendation for BOV, the HKS SSQ is the best, most trouble free we have used.
Fuel System.
You will need more fuel to go along with the increased airflow of your big turbo. On stock injectors we have got 310whp on a t3/t4 kit. That is maxing out the stock injectors. Larger injectors and fuel pump, along with something to control the injectors is needed. We suggest RC 750cc injectors and a Walbro pump. They will provide enough fuel for about 430whp and when combined with the AGP fuel return line kit can support 500whp. We use TurboXS DTEC to control the injectors. It’s easy to install, easy to use, easy to tune, and don't require a laptop or anything. You can also can store more than 1 map, for racegas and pump gas. We now have base maps for almost any setup provided free of charge with a fuel system/turbo kit purchase. This is a great way to get you started. The DTEC requires a gameboy advance to interface and tune, that is not included.
Reliability
A big question that we get alot is "Can I have a reliable car with one
of these turbo kits" The answer is yes. As long as the car is safely tuned
and has the proper supporting mods, then there is no reason that the car cannot
be a perfect daily driver. Many owners report that gas mileage increases and
the car has much better street manners than a bone stock SRT4. No more part
throttle boost, boost spikes, crazy torque spikes, fluttering, surging or many
other issues associated with the stock turbo. Power will come on nicely and
pull hard all the way to redline. Boost is easy to control with any quality
boost controller. The turbos will give years of life as long as they are fed
quality oil and you prevent any foreign objects from entering them.
Now that you've read the Turbo guide, order a kit, make great power, be happy.
ALL TURBO KITS INCLUDE- AGP T3/T4 manifold, Turbo of your choise, AGP-38mm wastegate, stainless dump tube, 3" stainless O2 housing, oil feed and drain lines, gaskets, nuts and bolts, Stainless Steel heatshield, overflow bottle. Available turbine housings - .48, .63, .82.
Optional turbine wheels - Stage 3, Stage 5 or P trim.
This setup can be configured with other options as well. Email or call us for
a quote. Most configurations ship out within a week of order.
Stripper Kit does not include the heat shield and overflow bottle, and saves you $150!!!
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