Installation Procedures
Caution: Failure to follow these instructions can result in premature turbocharger failure. If you have never installed a turbocharger before, we highly recommend having an experienced professional perform the installation. AGP Turbochargers, Inc. is not responsible for damages to the turbocharger assembly or vehicle due to installation error.
If you have a standard bearing turbocharger: The loads produced on your standard bearing turbocharger’s rotating assembly require oils with high levels of ZDDP to adequately create a film between like metals. Standard bearing turbine shafts spin between bushings (bearings) and must have a constant film of oil in order for the components to survive. This is where choosing the right oil can make the difference. We have found that Brad Penn Grade 1 is one of the best and most cost effective oil out there. Other oils that we’ve found that contain the proper levels of ZDDP are Valvoline VR1 and VR1 Synthetic NSL, and Amsoil SAE Synthetic Premium Protection. We have also used Rotellla T6 synthetic oil with much success over the years.
Additionally, we advise using thicker viscosity in these brands of oil as the heat generated by high shaft speeds will break down thin 0W, 5W, and 10W oils and cause the oil to coke inside the turbo where oil temperatures can exceed 200 degrees F. Your standard bearing turbo will enjoy that you make the right choice. These are merely suggestions by us, because we have seen failures due to improper oil over the years. These types of oils may not contain the many of the detergents that most off the shelf oils have, thus you will need to change your oil more regularly than you’re used to. If you feel that the oils you run are sufficient, we would recommend having an oil analysis completed by Blackstone Labs.
If you have a ball bearing turbocharger: We still recommend running a high ZDDP oil as all lubricating components in your engine will always benefit with proper ZDDP levels. However, ball bearing turbocharger assemblies are quite different and do not require as much volume of oil when compared to a standard bearing turbo. What does this mean to you? You need not be as strict on your oil choice when running a ball bearing turbo. That being said, we will still recommend all of the same oil above.
When installing a replacement turbocharger, be certain there is no foreign material in the air cleaner and the ducting to the compressor inlet or in the exhaust manifold. Even small or soft objects will cause extensive damage to the turbocharger wheels. Take care to avoid getting dirt or debris into the turbocharger openings. New and replacement turbochargers may have bolts missing or deliberately left loose to facilitate installation.
Realignment of housings
Loosen the compressor (aluminum) and turbine (cast iron or steel) housing bolts and or V-band nuts the minimum required to permit the housings to rotate on the center housing. Excessive loosening of the housings will allow contact and possible wheel damage. Bolts should not have to be loosened more than 1 ½ turns. T3 and T4 style turbocharger assemblies have six 13mm (1/2") head bolts on holding the compressor housing on, and six 13mm (1/2") head bolts holding the turbine housing on (Other manufacturer's turbos will be very similar). Temporarily secure turbocharger to the engine exhaust manifold outlet flange with two bolts. Rotate the center housing so that the oil inlet and outlet pads will mate with the engine lines. The oil outlet (largest hole) must be at the bottom with the center line of the hole not more than 15 degrees from vertical. Snugly tighten at least two bolts or V-band to lock the housing in place. Now rotate the compressor housing so it lines up with your intercooler piping. Snug the bolts. Remove turbocharger from engine and tighten all bolts and/or v band nuts. Tighten bolts alternately from side to side to prevent cocking of the housing. Turn V-band nuts slowly as the torque setting is approached to allow for the band to fully seat. Compressor bolts should be torqued to 10 ft/lbs and turbine bolts should be torqued to 20 ft/lbs.
Installation and Pre-Oiling of turbochargers
Remove old gasket from the exhaust manifold mounting flange, inspect flange for erosion and flatness and install a new gasket, if applicable. Inspect oil drain and supply lines for kinking, clogging, restrictions and other signs of deterioration. Please use new oil feed and drain lines. Oil feed line should have a minimum internal diameter of .150" for a journal bearing turbo. Oil drain line should have a minimum internal diameter of .625".
Install turbocharger on engine using all new gaskets and O rings (when needed), but do not connect the compressor inlet and oil supply line. Tighten the nuts or bolts attaching the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold to torque values. Using a high temperature lubricant (anti-seize) on these threads is recommended.
Connect oil feed line using no Teflon tape or any sort of sealant. Use of Teflon tape or any type of thread sealer will find its way into the oiling system and cause failure of the turbocharger.
Start engine
Before attempting to start the engine, crank the engine with the fuel/ignition shut off for ten to 15 seconds (three separate times) or until the instruments show an oil pressure buildup. Start the engine and allow running at idle speed for 15 to 20 minutes without accelerating or until engine has reached full operating temperature. Check for oil/water leaks around turbocharger and related installed components. After it has been determined that there are no leaks in the oiling system of the turbo, allow approximately 100 miles driven under normal conditions without going into "boost". This is done to properly wash out all of the assembly lube used when assembling the turbocharger, and to allow carbon to build up along the piston ring areas of the turbine shaft. Immediately running the turbocharger to its full potential without proper break-in procedures will cause premature turbocharger failure.